
Not wanting to subsidize the surveillance state is being characterized as being a NIMBY now? These losers are so desperate to build their giant number masturbators. It’s so pathetic.
This account is mostly for shitposting. Don’t take anything it says too seriously.
My notifications stay off because I don’t play chess with pigeons. Get mad.
All my OC is created with MS Paint (not Paint 3D). I know how to use “real” photo editing software, but I still prefer Paint for memes; I enjoy how its technical limitations add a problem solving element to the creative process.
I despise ads in nearly all forms. My art aims to offer the viewer a glimpse into how I perceive them. Colors are often inverted because inverted colors are often perceived as being “ugly” and “harsh” and I think all ads are ugly and harsh-looking.
I try not to spend more than 20-30 minutes on any one piece because I think spending any more time than that indicates a certain level of respect for the original source material I don’t wish to convey, and I want my art to have a certain “vandalism” or “graffiti” vibe to it.

Not wanting to subsidize the surveillance state is being characterized as being a NIMBY now? These losers are so desperate to build their giant number masturbators. It’s so pathetic.


Thank you for the insight. I think I’ll continue to pass this one over


You own the games you buy from Steam too. The license you get is the same one that comes with a physical copy. You don’t have to launch the game theough Steam or even have Steam installed to play. Once the files are on your machine, you can launch and run the game just like you installed it from a disc.


Oh, well since Nintendo “voluntarily” paid the tariffs, by their own logic, that means they’re not entitled to refunds either, right?


Ive heard a lot of hype around this game, but when I look at the store page, it says there’s like $300 worth of DLC, and a bunch of it looks like better guns and stuff.
Is it possible to enjoy this title if you only buy the base game and no DLC? Or are you going to be stuck in an endless grind and always be outgunned by anyone willing to pay $5.99?

Open mic night. The only qualification is that you show up.


Thank you for the implementation advice, that was my next question.
I have an old drive I installed Win 10 on a few years ago. It was a fresh build, so it would have been the only drive in the machine when I installed it. The software I need is already installed there and in a working state.
I also have a new machine with a new drive. I installed Mint on the new drive while it was the only drive in the new machine.
My plan is to move the Win 10 drive from the old machine to the new one. In the BIOS, I would set the Linux drive as the default boot option. When I need Windows, I would boot into BIOS and select the Windows drive as a one-time boot option.
Am I on the right track?


Who cares if the program takes ten seconds to run instead of one when it only needs to run once and coding it in Python takes a few hours instead of a day or two in C?
If you need performance that badly, by all means, use C. If you have ten ideas for simple programs and just want to code them real quick without fighting the compiler and worrying about all the little shit that C demands from you, then there’s nothing wrong with using Python.
Everything in life is a tradeoff. Use the right tool for the job.

Stopped reading where it said “I got chat gpt to…”


Depending on your desired level of mastery, practice and consistency alone aren’t enough. Self-taught is the slowest, most difficult way to learn and i only recommend it to those who are interested in coding at a hobby level.
If you want to make a career of it, if you want to be a professional, you also need timely (ideally immediate) feedback from a trained expert who can spot errors in your technique and teach you how to effectively conceptualize and approach the problems you’re solving.
You need a coach, a mentor, a teacher. Harvard university’s CS50 course is free and an excellent way to get access to such experts and other students with similar goals to collaborate with.
“Doesn’t make a profit” doesn’t mean “is run inefficiently”. It doesn’t even mean “doesn’t generate excess value”. It just means excess value is reinvested into the system, like the US Post Office. It never makes money, never has made any money, has always either saved or reinvested the money left over on the balance sheet at the end of the year.


Company-issued slop muzzles


I just looked up the Rossi Brawler and it’s only $335, putting it around half the price as your cheapest .44 mag. I didn’t know they were that cheap, but it makes sense given the simple design. You can get it chambered in .300 blackout and it has a threaded barrel, so that’s pretty cool.
That’s still only a little bit cheaper than an AR-15, which is going to be more effective at just about everything, so it’s probably still not something I would go for, but I think I’m seeing the appeal now. If you just gotta be able to put 5.56, .45 colt, or whatever down range, and that’s all you can afford, it sure beats nothing.


Your hand might take a beating, but the gun would be fine. Generally speaking, assuming there are no microfractures from manufacturing defects, if the steel and the design can withstand one shot, it can withstand tens of thousands. Assuming, of course, you perform the required PMCS and don’t fire so quickly as to overheat the steel.


The case basically explodes in the chamber.
Yeah, that’s how firearms work.
When the gun and the cartridge match, the diameter of the projectile is slightly larger than the barrel bore. For example, a .357 magnum cartridge is .357 inches, stuffed into what’s ostensibly a .35 caliber gun. Gunpowder isn’t an explosive, it actually burns very slowly. It’s this very small size difference that allows pressure to build and create the chamber pressures advertised on the ammo box.
Of course a shotgun receiver can’t withstand the same pressure as a .50 BMG receiver, but that’s not what I said. I said a .50 BMG cartridge won’t create enough pressure in a 12 gauge receiver to damage it.
But, by all means, don’t take my word for it. There are plenty of videos of other people doing it and explaining it. Watch one of those instead.
Extraction and cycling are a whole other story, I’m not referring to that. 12 gauge shells are rimmed, .50 BMG is rimless, of course it probably won’t cycle in most shotguns.


I’ve often struggled to determine the use case for these kinds of guns. If you’re hunting, surely a long gun in the same cartridge would be a better choice. If only for emergency defense against large animals while hiking, surely a revolver with a slightly smaller cartridge would be worth having five shots instead of one before having to reload, right?
Besides being a cool conversation piece or range toy, I’m not really sure what I’m supposed to do with something like this.


Actually, the gun is completely safe. Many people have tested and confirmed this.
12 gauge is actually like .54 caliber so most of the expanding gas passes around the projectile without building pressure. The projectile leaves the barrel way slower than normal, but still fast enough to be lethal, and not very accurately.


From someone who has fired a .45-70 derringer, you’re absolutely correct. At a certain point, your wrist is getting torqued whether you like it or not.


It’s kinda hard to tell from this picture, but it looks like some kind of .308 or maybe .30-06 cartridge.
Single-shot handguns that fire large rifle rounds certainly exist and fire much larger rounds than that. Kentucky Ballistics on YouTube has many videos showing his collection of them. The video where Eddie Hall fires them all is a good vid where he shows many of them off.
I don’t actually know.
On a completely unrelated note, have you ever seen those lithium-ion reciprocating saws? Have you ever seen those bi-metal, metal-cutting blades?
Have you ever seen those lithium-ion angle grinders? Have you ever seen those thin cutoff wheels for them?
Anyway, back on topic, I have no idea what might work.