If the accessory belt fails to spin your power steering pump, it isn’t going to pump. Be it a failed belt (which will also impact the alternator and AC compressor) or a seized bearing or whatever else. No pumping, no pressure. No pressure, no power steering. And a sufficient leak, without regular topping up, will eventually allow air into the system. Which, again, means no pressure and no power steering.
How easily (and costly) it’s repaired depends entirely on the nature of the failure. A belt might only set you back $15 to $25 USD and be doable with a cheap socket set and a breaker bar that reaches the tensioner (if you’ve got an automatic tensioner). A bearing might only be $7 but how many people already have the puller and press? Removing and replacing a failed pump? For my old truck the OEM part is discontinued. We’re starting at $80 (remanufactured) going up to around $200 new aftermarket with a reservoir and pulley. And I’ve the luxury of a spacious engine bay and longitudinally mounted engine. Good luck to anyone with a small car and transverse mounted engine; taking off a wheel, popping clips, removing skirting and wheel well plastics… “Easy” becomes relative mighty quick.
I haven’t worked a day in my life as a mechanic (not even small engine) that wasn’t for myself or friends and family, and I still know enough to say you’re either wrong or incomplete in your claims.
They stated slipping belts and a leak. A PS pump still works with those. A serp belt replacement is the easiest possible thing to do on a car besides plugs. Electric? Youre shit out of luck. $3000 down the drain minimum for electric.
I’m just saying the push for electric steering was so they can control your car easier under the guise of safety. Its not an improvement for the end user.
If the accessory belt fails to spin your power steering pump, it isn’t going to pump. Be it a failed belt (which will also impact the alternator and AC compressor) or a seized bearing or whatever else. No pumping, no pressure. No pressure, no power steering. And a sufficient leak, without regular topping up, will eventually allow air into the system. Which, again, means no pressure and no power steering.
How easily (and costly) it’s repaired depends entirely on the nature of the failure. A belt might only set you back $15 to $25 USD and be doable with a cheap socket set and a breaker bar that reaches the tensioner (if you’ve got an automatic tensioner). A bearing might only be $7 but how many people already have the puller and press? Removing and replacing a failed pump? For my old truck the OEM part is discontinued. We’re starting at $80 (remanufactured) going up to around $200 new aftermarket with a reservoir and pulley. And I’ve the luxury of a spacious engine bay and longitudinally mounted engine. Good luck to anyone with a small car and transverse mounted engine; taking off a wheel, popping clips, removing skirting and wheel well plastics… “Easy” becomes relative mighty quick.
I haven’t worked a day in my life as a mechanic (not even small engine) that wasn’t for myself or friends and family, and I still know enough to say you’re either wrong or incomplete in your claims.
They stated slipping belts and a leak. A PS pump still works with those. A serp belt replacement is the easiest possible thing to do on a car besides plugs. Electric? Youre shit out of luck. $3000 down the drain minimum for electric.
I’m just saying the push for electric steering was so they can control your car easier under the guise of safety. Its not an improvement for the end user.