Doable, but requires experience, skill and the right tools. Not really one for an amateur unless you’re a quick learner with at least a basic understanding of engineering principles.

Ideal tools; Fibreglass pencil, magnifying headset, temperature controlled soldering iron with a micro tip, needlenose pliers, ceramic tweezers, enamelled motor wire, good solder and flux, 2 part epoxy and appropriate tools, and a lot of patience.

Take the laquer off the copper tracks leading to the mutilated connections with the fibreglass pencil, and tin the exposed copper. Place the replacement connector and tin it’s pins. Cut appropriate lengths of enamelled wire, strip enamel off ends with fibreglass pencil and tin. Bend wire where necessary with needlenose pliers, hold in place with ceramic tweezers, and solder to bridge the broken tracks. Be careful not to short pins together with solder, or the next step can end badly…

When that’s done, carefully test the device to ensure connector throughput and resolder where appropriate. When tested working, apply thin coating of thoroughly mixed epoxy over the solder bridges and connector, being exceptionally careful not to get epoxy in the connector. (Silicone dummy plugs can be helpful here).

As far as I can see, the contacts were been ripped off. You could try scratch away the coating in the lines above and try to get a connection there but I think you need some experience to do that

You sure this is USB-C?

A USB-C port has 20 pins, two rows of 10.

Your image appears to only have two traces leading up to the ripped off pads. I would assume that perhaps there are vias to the other side of the board that aren’t visible due to lossy image quality, which would more closely match USB2 Mini or Micro B (4 Pins).

Ultimately, this is fixable with the right tools and skills. It looks like the main ground pads for mechanical support of the receptacle are still there. You would then need to expose parts of the trace on the PCB, solder jumper wires to the pins of the receptacle, and then solder those jumper wires to the corresponding trace.

The best “guide” is going to be watching a multitude of videos of how it’s done. Look up USB Port or Receptacle replcement.

Your supply requirements:

Fine tipped soldering iron

Solder

Flux

Thin enamel wire

Magnification (I prefer a microscope)

Fiberglass pencil or small blade (scalpel, x-acto, that sort of thing)

Tweezers

Those pins are toast, it’s salvageable, but the question is if it’s worth it.

Looking at the picture, it looks like it’s near an edge of the USBC connector, with some hopefully resistors attached. If these lines aren’t the high speed lines, it might work afterwards.

You’ll want thin wire, like hair thin, and you might be able to connect to the pads of the parts. It’s beyond me at USBC scale, but not impossible.

How seamless do you need it to be? Does it need to fit back into the same form factor exactly? If you have some wiggle room they sell small break out boards that have only positive and negative that you could likely use. But like the other commenter said you would still need to scrape the traces on the existing board, which is not terribly hard, it’s the shouldering that’ll be kinda tight but manageable.

If you need it to be exact, that is a taller task. Which you could make slightly easier if you replaced it with a micro USB. Which I know downgrading sucks, but soldering to a raw USB C port is much suckier.

Difficult but not impossible.

If this is critical to you, get an experienced person to do the repair. If it’s non-critical and you know the basics of soldering, it would be worth a shot and a good learning experience even if unsuccessful